# Micro Series Guides for the Micro and Micro+ 3D Printers # Software Downloads {% hint style="success" %} First, Make sure to take a look at the [Micro 3D Printer Quick Guide.](https://printm3d.com/files/Quick_Getting_Started.pdf) {% endhint %} ## Software Download {% tabs %} {% tab title="Micro + (Plus)" %} {% hint style="danger" %} **CAUTION** This software is intended for Micro+ users and has not been fully tested for backward compatibility with the Micro. Use of this software to control a Micro is at your own risk. {% endhint %} **Download the Latest Version.** | Windows | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/13ST9Nf1m-7AQv1Bwk0zxcAuhLPR4Gzsh/view?usp=sharing) v1.8.0.0 [MD5](https://printm3d.com/files/software_pro_alpha/Windows/2017-09-21-setup_m3d-V1.8.0.0.exe.md5.txt) | | ------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Linux | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ryinKws8xRMB68SlMt-O7IipBql6VZ3r/view?usp=sharing) v1.8.2.0 [MD5](https://printm3d.com/files/software_pro_alpha/Linux/m3drealize_1.8.2-1_amd64.deb.md5.txt) | | Mac | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/16bBwXL92ssiaaZxWEkezCPE4u97wdiUj/view?usp=sharing) v1.8.1.0 [MD5](https://printm3d.com/files/software_pro_alpha/Mac/2017-10-05-v1.8.1.0-M3D.dmg.md5.txt) (Not compatible with OSX Mojave and Catalina) | [Click here to browse all versions](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gkdai2t8vz23pbs/AADvTZglDk1LVRXBRN6WVNfea?dl=0) {% endtab %} {% tab title="Micro (Regular) " %} {% hint style="warning" %} This software is intended for M3D Micro Printers only. {% endhint %} **Download the Latest Version** | Windows | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fW-EcZrXksk44CLbp-74B5dDQ0bPjOBT/view?usp=sharing) V1.5.1.0 | | ------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Linux | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ryinKws8xRMB68SlMt-O7IipBql6VZ3r/view?usp=sharing) V1.8.2.0 | | Mac | [Download](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w2pQWiQz6LdhyPoDo8vWY9sp0fOGQzc0/view?usp=sharing) V1.5.2.0 | **User Manual** | English | [Download](http://printm3d.com/files/software/Instructions/M3D%20Manual%20Sept_2015.pdf) | | ------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Spanish | [Download](http://printm3d.com/files/manual_del_usuario.pdf) | | {% endtab %} | | | {% endtabs %} | | ## PDF Manuals {% tabs %} {% tab title="Micro + (Plus)" %} **The M3D Micro+ User Manual.** [English](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PFgxiMGUPydX-Sgrwn4PyOFbqQlYm-JI) {% endtab %} {% tab title="Micro" %} **The M3D Micro User Manual.** [English](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZUBrGPQK_e_zC5bYDYN66d5BImC1TnqQ/view?usp=sharing) [Español](http://printm3d.com/files/manual_del_usuario.pdf) {% endtab %} {% endtabs %} ## Getting Started Video # Getting Started {% hint style="success" %} Don't forget to take a look at the [Micro 3D Printer Quick Start Guide.](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PFgxiMGUPydX-Sgrwn4PyOFbqQlYm-JI/view)​ {% endhint %} # Micro 3D Printer Unboxing Guide ## Congratulations On Receiving your New Micro! Please watch the [Unboxing Youtube Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6qap7U-hFc) for a quick overview of the process. {% hint style="info" %} The Gantry Clips (also known as front gantry protectors) are printed with each Micro to determine printing performance and print quality. Then these gantry clips are then used to protect the carbon rods during shipment. {% endhint %} ## Common Questions & Solutions * **Gantry Clips Not Removed** - Prior to using the Micro 3D printer for the first time, the package contains small white flags that say, "**Remove Clips!**" as seen below in the first image. If these clips are not removed before printing, this will invalidate the bed height (z-height) and can burn a hole in your plastic base while printing. * *Solution:* "Recalibrate Bed Location" before printing. ![](/files/-LHEJMiOssYVHdb2CX_f) * **Broken Carbon Rods** - During shipment, the rods have broken. * *Solution:* See worst case scenario below.\ * **Missing Items** - Shipping department error. * Solution: Please contact our [Technical Support team](https://support.printm3d.com/submit_ticket).\ * **Incorrect Items** - Shipping department error. * *Solution:* Please contact our [Technical Support team](https://support.printm3d.com/submit_ticket).
# External Spool Holder M3D recommends printing and utilizing an external spool holder. We have provided several links here. It's highly recommended to print your external spool holder as one of your very first prints. The external spool holder will allow you to utilize a wide range of different size filament spools, as well as optimize your printer's performance. Here are several looks to choose from: The Spool Shark: {% file src="/files/-M1Bl8oujlvEj9PFHn17" %} M3D Spool Shark Spool Holder {% endfile %} {% file src="/files/-M1BlCr\_FXGugh5bId6S" %} M3D Spool Shark Spool Holder (mirror) {% endfile %} The Rifle Spool Holder: {% file src="/files/-M1BlqqhTLq2N2V8gT1N" %} M3D Rifle Spool Holder {% endfile %} The[ ](https://support.printm3d.com/388355-Micro-External-Spool-Holder)Original Spool Holder (prints as two pieces): {% file src="/files/-M1C-VP1w\_SgsroMb-31" %} M3D Spool Holder {% endfile %} Whichever look you choose, your external spool holder will be an extremely useful addition to your M3D Micro Series printer. # Loading and Unloading 3D Ink **Description of M3D 3D Ink Filaments** We've really seen PLA become the workhorse for The Micro, and very strongly recommend this material for first time users. The reasons include a subtle but nice molasses smell, really capable of printing large objects well, M3D optimized quality compared to first generation 3D printing of PLA's (such as better support removal and retraction to prevent ooze - whereas ABS was better for these in the past, PLA has caught up), never infinite use of the printbed (no damage), extreme strength, and most importantly really neat translucent colors that we produced free of extra charge for these even though they are special compared with solid colors. About the only disadvantage of PLA is that it is tricky to get working with the friction of the internal port and that it requires longer print times on very small objects to allow cooling. Comparatively, ABS is better for very small prints (where fast cooling is needed), where a small amount of flexibility is needed, or where solvent-smoothing is needed (such as to make and paint figurines). Increasingly, we are planning to release alternatives for ABS such as durable and slightly more flexible materials. **Tables of M3D Filament Cheat Codes** Below are tables that display all cheat codes for ABS, PLA, Opaque PLA, Chameleon and Tough filament colors, which can be used during the Load Filament process. You can view a couple of chameleon filament videos to learn more about how it works: [Genie Blue - Ice 15C Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hHulkFg_Gs) and [Coral Orange - Warm 45C Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcd2PSUJw98). If you notice a cheat code displays incorrect information in the M3D software, please contact our [technical support team here](https://support.printm3d.com/submit_ticket). | **Expert 3D Ink (ABS)** | | **3D Ink (PLA)** | | | ----------------------- | ------------------- | ---------------- | ------------------- | | Color | Software Cheat Code | Color | Software Cheat Code | | Fuchsia Red | YAY | Light Fuchsia | LUV | | Cobalt Blue | BAM | Deep Cobalt | COW | | Shamrock Green | BOA | Deep Shamrock | PUB | | Carribbean Blue | SEA | Light Caribbean | SKY | | Mulberry Purple | MOO | Deep Mulberry | PIE | | Crimson Red | FLY | Deep Crimson | FOX | | Mango Yellow | APE | Deep Lemon | WEE | | Fire Orange | HOT | Sunset Orange | POP | | Phantom White | YAW | White Pearl | ICE | | Titanium Silver | FUN | Satellite Silver | ART | | Charcoal Black | COY | Onyx Black | WAY | | Honey Clear | YAW | Crystal Clear | WOW | | **Chameleon 3D Ink** | | **Opaque Ink (PLA)** | | | ------------------------------ | ------------------- | -------------------- | ------------------- | | Color | Software Cheat Code | Color | Software Cheat Code | | Dragon Red - Touch 30°C | DRG | Fire Truck | HUG | | Dragon Red - Hot 60°C | DRA | Pumpkin Orange | YUM | | Rose Red - Touch 30°C | ROS | Berry Purple | YUM | | Coral Orange - Touch 30°C | COR | Blue Moon | HUG | | Coral Orange - Warm 45°C | CRL | Antique Gold | GLD | | Despicable Yellow - Touch 30°C | DSP | Snake Copper | COP | | Monster Green - Touch 30°C | MON | Apple Green | YUM | | Genie Blue - Touch 30°C | GEN | Sky Blue | YUM | | Genie Blue - Ice 15°C | GNY | Orient Red | HUG | | Gargoyle Black - Touch 30°C | GRG | | | | **Tough 3D Ink™** | | | ----------------- | ------------------- | | Color | Software Cheat Code | | Impact Black | TGK | | Milk White | TGW | | Yoga green | TGG | | Strong Purple | TGP | | Utility Grey | TGU | | Mighty Blue | TGB | | Flexible Ruby | TGR | | Super Blue | TGB | | Durable Clear | TGC | | Raven Purple | TSP | | Orange Heft | TSO | | Rocky Green | TGG | **Using Non-M3D Filaments** There is a common question: Any issues running non-M3D PLA or ABS filaments? Many different people have tried printing with several different types of filament, but various aspects such as temperature, flow rate, motion speed, model configuration, etc. determine the difference between a successful print and a failed print. Most 1.75mm filaments can work, but there is no guarantee it won't clog the nozzle. Ninjaflex, for example, has worked before but there is no guarantee about performance or quality at this time. In the future, we will begin to test and certify various types of filaments that can work with the Micro. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559c10b13d4af.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559c1160cbb10.png) **Creating custom filament profiles** Custom filament profiles allow you to set the temperature for a particular filament/color combination. This is for advanced users only and we recommend using the default settings that have been tested by M3D. Not doing so can have the potential to clog your nozzle, overheat the extruder motor, or damage your printer. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_556c9a159f560.png) **Quick adjustment of filament temperature** In the heat of the moment, there is another option to change the current filament temperature immediately. Click the settings cog in the upper right hand corner to quickly change the current temperature setting of the loaded filament. The temperature range for PLA is 190C to 240C. The temperature range for ABS is 240 to 285. If the temperature is set to outside of these ranges, an error message will pop up to say the temperature cannot be set outside these bounds. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a496f000e0e.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a49730427a8.png) **MSDS Reference for M3D Filaments** All of our products, including our filaments are made from 100% non-toxic components and considered generally safe under normal use. They are not considered a chemical, or a hazardous material by OSHA standards. Therefore, OSHA defines it as an "article" and does not require MSDS sheets. You can see more information about that here: **Loading Filament Through The External Port** [![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a03d2b6217f.png)](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=43) **Instructional Video** [Load Filament through External Port](https://www.dropbox.com/s/825r9usuz6nh7l6/6_LoadExternalFilament.MOV?dl=0) **Written Instructions** Once you’re ready to load your filament for printing, you will need to select the 3D Ink button at the top left. It will give you two options on how to load filament, for now we are going to use the external port option. The second page will ask you for your filament cheat code or filament type. Enter the CHEAT CODE displayed on your filament spool. Once you have entered the cheat code, click next and the printer will heat up and extrude the factory filament first. Open the filament package and install the end of the filament into the external port and you will feel the extruder take hold of the filament. Once your filament is extruded, you will click “yes” to end the filament loading process. Great! Now, you have completed the load filament process and you are ready to print! For our new filament spools, you will find a 3 letter cheat code on the front of the filament spool. In this case, you will type (CHEAT CODE) for (TYPE/COLOR) filament. The name 3D Ink indicates it is PLA filament and if it’s ABS 3D ink it will say “Expert 3D ink (ABS)”. If you have an older spool of filament, you will find a simple label saying white PLA for example. Instead of a cheat code, you will simply put PLA or ABS depending on the filament being used. A third page will ask you for the color and you will select the color you are currently using. For this video we will use the ice cheat code. After clicking next, the printer will then move to its home position. It will then begin to heat up and you will see a small piece of filament at the external port left from the factory. You won’t have to do anything with it as it will be extruded once the loading process begins. Now, I’m going to open my filament package and find the end of the filament. The prompt in the dialog box may ask you if filament has exited the extruder yet, but you will want to click “NO” I want to continue loading my filament to ensure the selected filament has been extruded. You will take the end of the filament and place it into the external port and you will feel the extruder take hold of the filament. Once it’s pulling in the filament, you should soon see the color of your filament coming out from the nozzle. Once you do, you will click “yes” in the dialog box to end the filament loading process. Now, you have successfully loaded your printer with filament and are ready to print! After the successful load, it will ask again if filament has exited the nozzle and you will click yes. This will take you back to the first page and display what is loaded in printer. **Description of Problem** Feeding filament through the external path is the recommended option when printing with the Micro. However, adhesion and extrusion problems can be created if some key details are easily overlooked. **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Friction from Spool Holder** - The external spool holder is most likely not free of friction. * *Solution:* We recommend purchasing precision bearing reducers to allow smooth feeding, as noted in the first image below. * **Tangled Spool** - The filament inside the external spool might be tangled/overlapping itself inside the spool or inside the print area, as shown in the second image below. * *Solution:* Check that the filament isn't overlapping in the spool. It is not uncommon to have the filament loop under itself when you remove it from the printer for storage and it can be hard to see. * **Overmold or nylon tube resistance** - See if removing overmold helps. * *Solution:* If the internal port works and the external port doesn't, the overmold is the root cause of the problem. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559374998895f.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a49adca0c77.png) **Loading Filament Through the Internal Feed Path** **Instructional Video** [Load Filament through Internal Port](https://www.dropbox.com/s/txd4qa4ye81znwx/7_LoadInternalFilament.MOV?dl=0) **Instructions In Written Form** Once you’re ready to load your filament for printing, you will need to click the 3D Ink button in the top left. It will give you two options on how to load filament, for now we are going to use internal port. A popup window will come up and it will ask you for your filament cheat code or filament type. For our new filament spools, you will find a 3 letter cheat code on the front of the filament spool. In this case, you will type (CHEAT CODE) for (TYPE/COLOR) filament. The 3D Ink indicates it is PLA filament and if it’s ABS 3D ink it will say “Expert 3D ink (ABS)”. If you have an older spool of filament, you will find a label like this. Instead of a cheat code, you will simply put PLA or ABS depending on the filament being used. A second dialog box will ask you for the color and you will select the color you are currently using. After clicking next, the printer will then move to its home position for the internal loading procedure. This will give you enough room to access the filament spool holder underneath the printbed. After it has reached its home position, a dialog box will come up with instructions on how to lift up the printbed. You will want to put your two thumbs on the back of the printbed and slide away from you and then pull the front edge of the printbed up. Now, you will see the empty space underneath that will hold your filament spool. You will want to orient the spool in the position so the filament unravels cleanly into the little black tube and can rotate freely inside. You will then feed the filament into the black tube and slowly feed it all the way to the extruder. You might have to hold the black tube with one hand while feeding the filament and apply some force to get it to the extruder. Once the filament has been feed to the extruder, you will click next in the window prompt. It will then begin to heat up and once heated it will prompt you to check that the filament is being gripped. If it isn’t, push the filament into the black tube until you feel a slight pull from the extruder. The prompt in the dialog box will ask you if filament has exited the extruder, but if not click “no” to continue the loading of the filament. When you finally see filament exiting the nozzle, you will then click “yes” when the prompt comes back. After clicking yes, you will want to place the spool neatly in the opening for it and follow the dialog for replacing the printbed. You will want to put the flat back edge of the printbed into the back notch and lay the printbed flat with the two tabs facing you. Then push the printbed towards you to lock it into place. You have now successfully loaded your Micro and are ready to print! **Description of Problems** Feeding filament through the internal path is the more advanced option. Friction is the major flaw with the internal filament tube, among other small details that can be overlooked. **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Tightly wound filament spool -** The filament is wound very tightly to prevent the spool from unwinding accidentally. However, near the end of a spools life, the extruder does not have enough force to pull the extra resistance, which causes the the print job to fail. * *Solution:* Do not use a filament spool that has less than half the filament remaining when using the internal feed path. Instead, switch to using the external feed path for these spools. * **Tangled Spool** - The filament inside the external spool might be tangled/overlapping itself inside the spool or inside the print area. * *Solution:* Check that the filament isn't overlapping in the spool. It is not uncommon to have the filament loop under itself when you remove it from the printer for storage and it can be hard to see. * **Kink in tubing** - Sometimes the black tubing can become kinked and you will only be able to feed a short amount (2-4 inches) of filament into the internal path before you experience a lot of resistance. Unscrew fluff, lift it, try to undo tubing kink with some kind of metal pipe clean or expander. * *Solution:* Please view the [How To Guide: Unkinking Internal Filament Tubing From Back Grommet](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=46) article. * **Friction caused by filament surface texture** - Check if filament looks like leather and has a rough surface, this may add too much friction. Only smooth filaments work well internally such that if there is any extra resistance at all, one kink in the internal port or anything, its a straight up fail. * *Solution:* Use this rough textured filament for the [External Feed Path](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=43). * **Resistance at the top of the metal housing** - Sometimes, the filament can hit the top of the metal housing as the filament. * *Solution:* Push the cable assembly towards the back or front to assist in finding the right position so filament can meet the drive gear. # Print Options To view more print options, click "Print", then click "More Options..." to modify more print options like wave bonding and support material. Below, we have listed some general information about these settings and features. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_556769090501a.png) **Printer:** Displays the printer's serial number **Current Filament:** Displays the filament you have loaded through the internal port or through the external port. **Print Quality (layer resolution):** There is a range of 100 microns (High quality layer accuracy), 200 microns (Medium quality), and 300 microns (Low quality). If you choose a larger layer height, it will print faster but have less resolution per layer. Lower layer resolution isn't necessarily better, especially for materials that warp more easily. **Fill Density:** There is a range of Hollow thin walls (1 wall), Hollow thick walls (2 walls), Low infill, Medium infill, and High infill. Changing the infill will change the estimated completion time of the print job, as well as determine how hollow or hard a printed object can be. For example, small, thin limbs my require more infill to prevent them from snapping into pieces, while large vases may not require any infill. Poor bridging happens for the top layers of hollow prints, because our software is not optimized for 90 degree overhang. In a perfect world, the extruder should slow down and the fan speed should turn up so that we can get an instantly cooled top layer. Try printing with low infill instead of hollow, and you should have much more success printing the top layer of the model. **Support Material Feature:** Printing a model from the bottom up, as with FDM, means that any significant overhangs will be printed in the air, and most likely droop or not print correctly. Choosing support material will add additional structures around the model which will build up to then support the overhanging part. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_558189e02313b.png) **Model-on-model support Feature:** Choosing model-on-model support material will add additional structures on top of the model below, which will build up to then support the overhanging part. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_558189ca7448b.png) **Wave Bonding Feature:** For the very first layer, anchor points are created approximately every 5mm to ensure the model sticks to the print surface. We recommend using this feature for large prints to prevent the first layer from warping/peeling. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5575ffc072ded.png) **Raft Feature:** The raft is a support layer underneath the model. Printing without a raft may fail and is recommended only for advanced users. Printing without a raft requires the bed level to be accurate to ensure warping/peeling of the entire model does not occur. # Removing 3D printed objects Are you frustrated with prints not coming off of the raft? So are we! Below, we have presented different options to be able to help you remove prints. **Option 1: Scrape prints off of the print surface** Various scraper tools can be used to wedge underneath prints and pry prints off. To remove the print, wedge the scraper underneath the printed object to cut the bond between the plastic and the print surface. ![](/files/-LHEH0t1EatcsIcye3Gl) ![](/files/-LHEH3k-kM_RupQHcItH) **Option 2: Peeling the buildtak adhesive sheet** Remove the print bed from the printer to peel off of the print surface. First, peel the buildtak adhesive print surface off of the print bed to pop off a corner of the 3D print. Then slide your finger underneath the 3D print to pry it off of the buildtak. Finally, reapply the buildtak sheet to the print bed and firmly press the sheet on each corner to help it bond. Here is an [example video peeling the buildtak to pop a print off the print bed](https://www.dropbox.com/s/qgfqceirv516acx/11_RemovingPrintsPeelingBuildtak.mp4?dl=0). ![](/files/-LHEH5WxeiIX4y6MY5se)
![](/files/-LHEH8PN_pwMnTXnCFIe)
![](/files/-LHEHATmbhqzx8A9mWTn) **Option 3: Bending the print bed** You can watch an almost silent [video example of removing a print off the print bed](https://www.dropbox.com/sc/k710cxathkec35x/AAC2hgakie_8Hku5bVa9UDlDa). As the print bed bends, the print bond will crack off the buildtak surface. Next, you can either pull the print off by hand or scrape it off the buildtak print surface. Here is another [example of bending the print bed and then scraping the print off](https://www.dropbox.com/s/uil6jguoj06emuf/12_RemovePrintBendBed.mp4?dl=0). # Websites to download 3D Models There are several websites where you can download free and paid 3D CAD Models, here is a list of some of our favorites: [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com/) [Yeggi](http://www.yeggi.com/) [Cults](https://cults3d.com/en) [Pinshape](https://pinshape.com/) [3DShook](http://www.3dshook.com/) [GrabCAD](https://grabcad.com/) [3D Warehouse](https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/?hl=en) [CGTrader](https://www.cgtrader.com/) [TurboSquid](http://www.turbosquid.com/) [3DExport](https://3dexport.com/) # STL File Manipulation & 3D Design Software **3D Design Software** | **Software** | **License** | **Experience Level** | **Website** | | --------------- | ----------- | -------------------- | ---------------------------- | | Autodesk 123D | Freeware | Beginner | | | OpenSCAD | GNU GPL | Amateur | | | FreeCAD | GNU LGPL | Amateur | | | Seamless3D | MIT | Intermediate | | | Google Sketchup | Freemium | Intermediate | | | SolidWorks | Commercial | Expert | | | Blender | GNU GPL | Expert | | | Rhino3D | Commercial | Expert | | **STL File Manipulation Software** | **Software** | **License** | **Capabilities** | **Website** | | -------------------- | ----------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------- | | Netfabb basic (free) | Freeware | Fill missing triangles, flip inverted triangles, and more | [http://www.netfabb.com](http://www.netfabb.com/) | | Slic3r (free) | Freeware | Capable of splitting a STL assembly into multiple STLs, merge STLs together, and create build plates | [http://slic3r.org](http://slic3r.org/) | | Materialise Magics | Commercial | A combination of Netfabb and Slic3r | | | Autodesk Meshmixer | Freeware | Use it to import stl files and manipulate them. You can split parts, add joints, merge parts, and add shapes to parts (like cubes, spheres, weird features) | | | Slash 3D | Freeware | Import STL models and hack away at them like Minecraft, or make blocked things from scratch and download as an STL. | | Updated: May 08 (3 months ago) **Other Articles** * [Websites to download 3D Models](https://support.printm3d.com/226923-Websites-to-download-3D-Models) * [Using NetFabb basic to make downloaded thingiverse models ](https://support.printm3d.com/540707-Using-NetFabb-basic-to-make-downloaded-thingiverse-models-printable) # Printing Guides # How to manually move print head **Manually moving print head** If your print head needs to be manually moved, you can do so by accessing the Spooler to use the movement buttons. **Spooler** 1. With printer on and connected, click the gear in the upper right hand corner to access settings\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa8ba128e1.png)\ 2. Navigate to the advanced settings tab and click the checkbox labeled "Expert Mode" to open the Spooler\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa90b0a79a.png)\ 3. Locate the movement arrow buttons at the left of the window and use them to move the print head in the direction needed ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_567031f63ecb0.png) 4. You can adjust the values to move the print head further in either direction\ Warning: the print head can be moved "outside" its bounds. So be careful when moving the print head down towards the bed as you can drive the print head into it. # Printing Google Sketchup STL files We love Google Sketchup because it is so easy to use. 1. Search the extention database for "stl" or click here\ 2. Install the extension. 3. Make sure to save the model in units of millimeter, not inches. 4. You can now file>export as>stl. 5. Import in M3D software and print! # Switching from ABS to PLA filament type {% hint style="info" %} This guide is only meant for people printing with ABS. We highly recommend using ABS-R instead. {% endhint %} Unlike other printers, The Micro 3D Printer operates at very different temperatures for ABS filament and PLA filament. For ABS, it operates at approximately 265C. For PLA, it operates at approximately 210C. This means if you have just printed with ABS, and you want to switch/load PLA, you will need to rid the nozzle of ABS filament first. To do this, allow the temperature to rise to 265C while extruding PLA. Click the Heat to ABS Temp button to purge/test extrusion of ABS filament. This will remove/purge all ABS material from the nozzle. The temperature must then be lowered to 210C to print with the PLA filament. On the other hand, if you were using PLA and now want to switch/load ABS, no special steps must be taken. The temperature used to print ABS is too hot for PLA to handle, so any PLA filament remaining in the nozzle will be removed/purged very easily. Click the Heat to PLA Temp button to purge/test extrusion of PLA filament. Also, click the Fan On button when working with PLA filament to make sure your extruder does not overheat. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_556f6bcc4ad1b.png) # Printing with Phantom White ABS (a.k.a. HIPS) As you might know, ABS temperature for the Micro is approximately 265C - 270C. This high temperature combination with near perfect offsets can lead to the nozzle digging/burning/damaging the buildtak sheet. You can dramatically improve print success with lower quality print settings because it nearly eliminates warp. In order to print with Phantom White ABS please try the following: 1. First raft layers must use wave bonding. 2. Must use raft. 3. First layers of raft must not be higher than \~265-270C or buildtak gets damaged. 4. Go into Expert Mode (M3D Spooler) 5. Turn fan off by clicking the Fan Off button 6. Turn up temps dramatically on first 5 layers after raft (285-290C). Type "M104 S285" in the Manual Insert G Code textbox. 7. CAN use the perfboard (no buldtak) option for phantom white ABS! 8. Do not perform any calibration without the buildtak print surface, or it could severely damage the perforated print bed. Advantages: Strong, good looking, low odor, easily solvent smoothed PIC Below: Left (large octopus, 275C hips, no raft, damaged buildtak and skipped first layers). Right (same, first layers 285C, raft in perfboard, much cleaner) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559249ca3b3aa.png)Updated: Mar 22 (3 months ago) # Backlash 101 Do you keep hearing the term backlash and have no idea what it is or what it does? This guide will explain. {% hint style="info" %} We recommend this video created by one of users.\ Understanding the Backlash Tower {% endhint %} {% file src="/files/-M9sVfo81Yd0CmBjh4gr" %} M3D Backlash Calibration Print {% endfile %} We’re here to help answer all of the questions you have ever had about backlash and why adjusting these settings are so important! In short, backlash is the correction for the slack in the drive systems for the x and y axis. When printing a 3D object, the print head moves in various directions along the x and y axis. This drive system is controlled by several belts and rods and is flexible in nature. Imagine yourself standing still and taking one step backward and then taking one step forward. What is the likelihood that you would have stepped back into that exact same spot? Probably not very likely. This is exactly what happens with your printer! The print head will move backward and then will try to move forward again into the exact same spot, but may be off by just a bit because of the flexibility of the belts and the rods. The backlash settings adjusts and corrects for this flexibility. Without proper backlash settings, you may end up with circles that aren’t very circular and/or gaps within the print. ![](/files/-LHEQK7k5tu0aoj9dDoG) If you are going to be printing anything that is remotely circular in nature, it is essential that your backlash is adjusted well to prevent these gaps from occurring. There are two settings that you can manually control when it comes to adjusting the backlash. You can control the backlash along the x and y axis as well as the speed of the backlash. The speed adjusts how fast the backlash corrections are applied. If the speed is too fast, it can cause skipping to occur. The y axis can be especially difficult to adjust correctly because it is controlled by belts rather than rigid rods which controls the x axis. If the tension is not exactly the same on each y belt, the values may need to be played around with a bit to get the settings just right. ## The backlash speed that we recommend is 1500mm. This is where you will be making all of your backlash adjustments: ![](/files/-LHEQVXRC1CpZJIooPpm) To access these settings you need to do the following: ![](/files/-LHEQZcqqmvbNqAAdB05) ![](/files/-LHEQajcrdNzQlLyLqtJ) This is what the backlash may look like when both the x and y axis are set to 0.00mm: ![](/files/-LHEQfgXlQxvAadM4_it) Print settings: low quality, low infill, no raft, no wave bonding, no support. {% hint style="info" %} When adjusting backlash values, it is very important to keep the calibration print in the same orientation. {% endhint %} ![](/files/-LHEQp2aaTJon76K0l63) The key to getting great backlash is to start from scratch, make minor changes, and keep testing until all of the gaps close. ![](/files/-LHER5DXVnD-Gtyte5zS) With each minor adjustment, you can see that the gaps are beginning to close: ![](/files/-LHER9K8Cghpdjst-U-X) When there are no more gaps, you have successfully adjusted your backlash settings! ![](/files/-LHERD7aaD1_UHZWpUAK) {% file src="/files/-LHEoNgiKm5lC82CcMQQ" %} PDF Back Slash 101 Guide {% endfile %} # Advanced Printer Settings Simplified M3D's Cheat sheet for common printer settings. {% hint style="warning" %} Printer firmware may not respect these settings under all conditions. {% endhint %} | Layer | Layer Thickness | 3 | | -------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------ | -- | | | Filament Diameter | 3 | | | Filament Flow | 3 | | | Use Nozzle Size for Extrusion Width (M3D-specific, Pro only) | 3 | | | Extrusion Width | 3 | | | Initial Layer Extrusion Width | 3 | | | Initial Layer Thickness | 3 | | | Enable Combing | 3 | | | Minimal Layer Time | 3 | | | Minimal Feed Rate | 4 | | | Cool Head Lift | 4 | | Shell and Infill | | | | | Inset Count | 5 | | | Down Skin Count | 5 | | | Up Skin Count | 5 | | | Sparse Infill Line Distance | 5 | | | Infill Overlap | 5 | | | Infill Pattern | 5 | | Support | | | | | Enable Support | 6 | | | Support Type | 6 | | | Use on Model Support | 6 | | | Support Angle | 6 | | | Support Line Distance | 6 | | | Support X/Y Distance | 6 | | | Support Z Distance | 6 | | Speed | | | | | Initial Speedup Layers | 7 | | | Initial Layer Speed | 7 | | | Print Speed | 7 | | | Inset 0 Speed | 7 | | | Inset X Speed | 7 | | | Move Speed | 7 | | | Infill Speed | 7 | | | Skin Speed: | | | Raft | | | | | Enable Raft | 8 | | | Raft Margin | 8 | | | Base Thickness | 8 | | | Base Line Width | 8 | | | Base Line Spacing | 8 | | | Interface Thickness | 8 | | | Interface Line Width | 8 | | | Interface Line Spacing | 8 | | | Surface Thickness | 8 | | | Surface Line Width | 8 | | | Surface Line Spacing | 9 | | | Raft Surface Layers | 9 | | | Raft Base Speed | 9 | | | Surface Speed: 9 | 9 | | | Raft Fan Speed | 9 | | | Raft Air Gap | 9 | | | Raft Air Gap Layer 0 | 9 | | Retraction, Fan, and Skirt | | | | | Retraction Amount | 10 | | | Retraction Speed | 10 | | | Prime Amount | 10 | | | Minimal Travel Before Retraction | 10 | | | Minimal Extrusion Before Retraction | 10 | | | Retraction Z Hop | 10 | | | Use Automatic Fan Settings (M3D-specific) | 10 | | | Minimum Fan Speed | 10 | | | Maximum Fan Speed | 10 | | | Fan Layer Threshold | 11 | | | Enable Skirt | 11 | | | Skirt Margin | 11 | | | Skirt Line Count | 11 | | | Minimal Length of Skirt Extrusion | 11 | ## Layer **Layer Thickness:** * Definition: Height of the printing layer. * Note: This does not include the first layer height (see Initial Layer Thickness below). **Filament Diameter:** * Definition: Diameter of filament on the spool. Setting this to a higher value will make your filament last longer. **Filament Flow:** * Definition: Percentage of calculated extrusion flow applied. **Use Nozzle Size for Extrusion Width (M3D-specific, Pro only):** * Definition: Causes the Extrusion Width setting to follow directly from the nozzle size selected in the “Accessories” menu. **Extrusion Width:** * Definition: Width of the extruded filament pattern **Initial Layer Extrusion Width:** * Definition: Width of the first layer **Initial Layer Thickness:** * Definition: Height of the first layer. **Enable Combing:** * Definition: When enabled, the printer will attempt to make all travel moves within the boundaries of a printed solid rather than in shortest-distance straight lines; primarily applicable for concave solids. **Minimal Layer Time:** * Definition: Desired minimum amount of time taken to print each single layer specified in metric hours. If printing layer time is lower than parameter value, printer will initiate a delay to reach the expected minimum layer time. This is useful for ensuring adequate cooling before printing new material on a surface. **Minimal Feed Rate:** * Definition: The minimal movement speed of the print head. **Cool Head Lift:** * Definition: The amount of vertical lift by the extruder head between each layer, when the time it takes to print a given layer exceeds Minimal Layer Time. ## Shell and Infill **Inset Count:** * Definition: The number of perimeter shells. **Down Skin Count:** * Definition: The count of bottom layers in a manifold solid. **Up Skin Count:** * Definition: The count of top layers in a manifold solid. **Sparse Infill Line Distance:** * Definition: The spacing between infill lines. **Infill Overlap:** * Definition: The amount of overlap between the infill layer and the innermost perimeter and/or shell. Defined as a percentage. * Note: 100% overlap represents the infill layer completely overlapping the innermost shell. **Infill Pattern:** * Definition: Selection of the infill geometric pattern. ## Support **Enable Support:** * Definition: Enables or disables support. **Support Type:** * Definition: Selection of support geometric pattern. **Use on Model Support:** * Definition: Overhang angle threshold for adding model-on-model support (0 is vertical i.e. no overhang; 90 is horizontal). When 0, “model on model” support is disabled. If greater than 0, “model on model” support is enabled. **Support Angle:** * Definition: The overhang angle threshold to start placing support. When 0, “model to print surface” (i.e. build plate) support is disabled. If greater than 0, “model to print surface” support is enabled. **Support Line Distance:** * Definition: The spacing between adjacent support features specified in yards. **Support X/Y Distance:** * Definition: The standoff distance between the support features and the outermost wall (exterior) of the print, specified in inches. **Support Z Distance:** * Definition: The gapped vertical spacing between support and the model’s solid outline. Increase to lower the adhesion of supports to the model, making them easier to remove. ## Speed **Initial Speedup Layers:** * Definition: The number of layers used to transition the initial print speed to full print speed. **Initial Layer Speed:** * Definition: The print speed of the first layer. **Print Speed:** * Definition: Printing speed of secondary structures (e.g. support) * Notes: Does not include shells, infill, top layers, bottom layers and non-printing moves (see below). **Inset 0 Speed:** * Definition: The print speed of the outermost shell (exterior). **Inset X Speed:** * Definition: The print speed of the inner shells (all shells except the outermost shell). **Move Speed:** * Definition: Speed of the printhead when traveling between locations (not building the printed object itself). **Infill Speed:** * Definition: Printing speed of infill. **Skin Speed:** * Definition: Printing speed of the top and bottom layers. * Note: Does not include the initial or remaining speedup layers (above). ## Raft **Enable Raft:** * Definition: Raft is a printed base on which to start printing the model. **Raft Margin:** * Definition: The extent by which to oversize raft dimensions in relation to the (first-layer) outline of the printed part. **Base Thickness:** * Definition: The vertical thickness of the raft’s first layer. **Base Line Width:** * Definition: The width of the extruded filament within the raft’s first layer **Base Line Spacing:** * Definition: Spacing between the extruded filament lines within the raft’s first layer **Interface Thickness:** * Definition: The vertical thickness of the raft’s intermediate layers (all remaining layers between the top and bottom layers of the raft) **Interface Line Width:** * Definition: The width of the extruded filament within the raft’s intermediate layers (all remaining layers between the top and bottom layers of raft). **Interface Line Spacing:** * Definition: Spacing between the extruded filament lines of the raft’s intermediate layers (all remaining layers between the top and bottom layers of the raft). **Surface Thickness:** * Definition: The vertical thickness of the raft’s top layer. **Surface Line Width:** * Definition: The width of extruded filament within the raft’s top layer. **Surface Line Spacing:** * Definition: Spacing between the extruded filament lines, referring specifically to the top layer only. **Raft Surface Layers:** * Definition: The number of top layers within a raft. **Raft Base Speed:** * Definition: The print speed of the raft’s first layer. **Surface Speed:** * Definition: The print speed of the raft’s top layers. **Raft Fan Speed:** * Definition: Set fan speed when printing the raft. **Raft Air Gap:** * Definition: Enables Raft Air Gap Layer 0 **Raft Air Gap Layer 0:** * Definition: The gapped vertical spacing between the surface of the raft and the first layer of the printed model. Increase to lower adhesion of the raft to the print. ## Retraction, Fan, and Skirt **Retraction Amount:** * Definition: Length of retraction performed by extruder. **Retraction Speed:** * Definition: Speed of retraction performed by extruder. **Prime Amount:** * Definition: Length of forward extrusion following a retraction, before resuming printing moves within the model. **Minimal Travel Before Retraction:** * Definition: The extent of a non-printing travel move, by the printhead, that determines whether retraction is implemented before travelling. For example, if set to 2 mm, features that are only 0.5 mm apart will not cause retraction/prime to be added. **Minimal Extrusion Before Retraction:** * Definition: Minimal input material the extruder shall have deposited before implementing retraction for a particular travel move. **Retraction Z Hop:** * Definition: Provides an extruder head vertical lift to assist the effectiveness of extruder retraction and avoid extra time in contact with the printed model. **Use Automatic Fan Settings (M3D-specific):** * Definition: Disregards user fan settings (Minimum Fan Speed, Maximum Fan Speed and Fan Layer Threshold below) and implements sensible fan settings tailored to the filament family, printing temperature and other conditions. **Minimum Fan Speed:** * Definition: Sets the lowest fan speed permissible during operation. **Maximum Fan Speed:** * Definition: Sets highest fan speed permissible during operation. **Fan Layer Threshold:** * Definition: The number of initial layers that will be printed using the Minimum Fan Speed setting. **Enable Skirt:** * Definition: Skirt is an optional printed outline of the exterior contour of the printed that does not touch the print itself. **Skirt Margin:** * Definition: Horizontal spacing distance between the skirt and the print. **Skirt Line Count:** * Definition: The number of outlines within a skirt. **Minimal Length of Skirt Extrusion:** * Definition: The minimal linear distance to be printed before considering a skirt complete. Overrides skirt line count if the linear distance for the given number of skirt lines is less than this threshold. **LED Brightness:** * Definition: A value between 0-255 that controls the brightness of the front LED. # Repair Guides Collection of repair guides used by customer support. More to come! # Manually Level Gantries If one or more of the gantries are not level with the others, here is a guide on how to manually level them. 1. One side of the x-rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. **Hold** the slider in one hand, and the x-rack in the other.\ ![](/files/-M78SlUmeuaeUhVwioB4) 2. While holding the slider and X Rack, *gently* **pull** apart from each other. *Please **be careful** as to not bend the Z Rods, only a **small gap** is needed.*\ ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 3. **Rotate** the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders.\ ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 4. **Take** the print head and begin to **slide** it off the x-rack towards the end that is free to remove from rack. *Set print head aside*.\ ![](/files/-M0UCrIJHvRv-vZxTLs1) ![](/files/-M0UCwGucPBnFGQwKHtI) 5. With printer on and connected, click the gear in the upper right hand corner to access settings ![](/files/-M79Hgm_Y1sbDwTxUVli) 1. Navigate to the advanced settings tab and click the tab labeled "Expert Mode" 2. The "Expert" window should now open and you will want to raise the z height by 50-100 using the Z Arrow buttons to get the gantries close to the top of the cube 3. Unplug both usb and power cables from printer for next steps 4. Next, push down on a corner of the base and pull up on the same corner of the lid to remove the lid (see picture below for technique) Note: Take caution when pulling off lid. You do not want to pull the rods out from the base ![](/files/-M79HgmaFAQGYbNXkTUb) 1. With the lid removed, you will see the z-belt running around the four pulleys on each threaded rod in the corners. Take a hook tool to grab the belt and slip it up or down off of the four pulleys (see photos below) ![](/files/-M7OIN7iFqp3UBotM45U) ![](/files/-M7OIN7jeYxJOq18mtKL) 1. Now with the belt off, you will be able to spin the threaded rods to move the gantries up or down. The best technique is to get the gantries all the way to the top of the rod where the top of the first thread is just showing (see photos below) ![](/files/-M7OJ1UPkgKOalmHCFDo) ![](/files/-M7OJ1UQBJS5BThKJ8aN) 1. You should now have the gantries looking like this ![](/files/-M7OJ1URms2S8XxX0r0h) 1. Replace the belt on all four pulleys being careful not to spin the belt 2. Plug in the printer and connect to the spooler like before 3. You now want to move the gantries down a bit to replace the lid. Press -50 for the Z and quickly place pressure down on the four threaded rods to keep them from coming out of the pulleys while the gantries are moving down. ![](/files/-M7OIN7k2jBlkkewT4tU) 1. Once the gantries are lowered, unplug the printer again and replace the lid. Carefully align the rods with their holes, install the four spring washers on the top of the threaded rods only and press down to snap into place. 2. Replace the print head and recalibrate the bed location before printing # Removing and replacing the print bed **To remove:** 1. Simply push the front portion of your print bed forwards to free the two front tabs from the front slots ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae768bb042b.png) 2. Lift from the front to clear the print bed from the slots ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae76baa52c9.png) 3. Pull backward to remove the back edge of the print bed ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae77039e276.png) **To replace:** 1. In order to replace the print bed, take the straight back edge of the print bed with the two front tabs facing towards you and slide the back edge into the back slot and push the print bed down flush ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae7936ce9ff.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae772fc2f4c.png) 2. Slide the print bed backwards to lock the two front tabs into their slots ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55ae7823e7119.png) Here are the steps to remove your print bed with a flat edged tool, such as a putty knife if your print bed is stuck. To get the print bed out, you will need to use more force than normal because the print bed is slightly thicker than normal, hence the reason why it can be difficult to remove. 1. Insert the tool on the front side of the print bed and then push the print bed backwards to unlock it. The second image (white printer) shows how to use the extruder front cover to push the bed backwards. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5567a8b5828e0.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a3efc6a54ae.png) 2. Lift the print bed up with the tool. The second image (white printer) shows the exact same motion, but using the extruder's front cover as the tool instead. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5567a9fbc2ffb.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a3f0911d7b7.png) 3. Grab and remove the print bed from the printer. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5567aa7217067.png) # Open/Close the Print Head Cove To open the front cover off of the print head, first, place your index and thumb finger on the left and right side of the print head where the red circle indicates. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557609753306d.png) Second, squeeze the front cover and pull it off. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5576099b661c1.png) If you're having trouble getting the front cover to fit back on you can try this method. First find the two black tabs at the top of the cover. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557609c69fcfb.png) Next, using one of you're fingers try and lightly push up on the tabs. Don't use too much force or you could risk breaking the tab. You want to try and flex the tab back into a more straight position. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557609edacfd5.png) Lastly, Place the cover back into the extruder. If done correctly the tabs should grab and snap onto the first vent hole shown below ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760a3b51d4e.png) # Retrieve internal filament tubing Please use the following steps to retrieve the internal filament tube from underneath the fluff. Prepare printer 1. With the printer connected, click the 3D ink tab in the M3D software\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571c8ef18a39.png)\ 2. Click the Insert Filament (Internal) tab\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571c9324d7d5.png)\ 3. Select PLA and any color for the filament type\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571c96716afe.png)\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571c9917d4ba.png)\ 4. The printer will then move the print head up and away from the print bed 5. Once the printer stops moving and this prompt pops up, click the X in the upper right-hand corner to cancel the procedure\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571c9c37f7a5.png)\ 6. Now there is enough room to access the portion of the printer that will need to be worked on 7. Unplug printer for next steps Retrieve internal filament tubing 1. Remove printbed from printer to expose the four screws ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571cd34702c2.png) 2. Remove the four screws underneath the printbed\ ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5576054d5b953.png) 3. With a small prying tool, slowly work around the internal circle to lift up the piece the screws were holding down\ NOTE: When attempting to fully pull up the piece held down by screws, please hold down the top portion of the printer so it does not get pulled up by the lower piece. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557605722e79d.png) 4. Once it's loose it can be lifted up along the threaded rods\ Note: Continue to be careful that the top portion of the lid does not slide up\ ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760591e62b5.png) 5. Locate the internal filament tubing and place it back into position. To prevent the internal tube from slipping back under the fluff again, add about 3-4 turns of black vinyl tape around the internal port tube, just behind the visible portion of the fluff.\ ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557605acabd85.png) ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_557605c64ad6c.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55c0cb887b59e.png) 6. Slide the printer piece (fluff) back down into place while making sure internal filament tubing is still in place and the end is exposed inside the internal filament spool area. 7. Replace the four screws and tighten 8. Internal filament tubing is now ready to be used again # Technical Support # Manual Calibration Guide **STEPS TO CALIBRATE THE NOZZLE TIP FOR THE M3D Micro/Micro+/PRO** 1. Go the M3D PRO software spooler. You can get access to the spooler by going to the “Show Hidden Icons” on the bottom right corner of your computer screen that has a symbol “^” (Figure 1). ![](/files/-M0UUbLXEuTurGZnzVLp) Figure 1: Access to M3D PRO spooler 1. Once into the spooler, click on view and then click on Show Advanced Option (figure 2). ![](/files/-M0UVlAeW3pR5aq67YIb) Figure 2: Advanced Options for the M3D PRO Spooler The following window will open (figure 3):\ ![](/files/-M0UVpA5QoGi5-Gn6QLX) Figure 3: Spooler window showing all the advanced options 1. Now click on Control This Printer tab to control the printer using the spooler so that you can heat the extruder, lower the nozzle, move the printer in X and Y axis, etc (figure 4). Type in the G-code G28 to move the print nozzle to the center of the print bed. ![](/files/-M0UVuemgAt6qAIFYuVW) Figure 4: Spooler window showing the “Control This Printer” tab 1. Take a small piece of A4 size paper (100 microns), figure 5 and slide it under the nozzle. ![](/files/-M0UVzVvyLVbFWhwDQ9e) Figure 5: Small A4 size paper (100 microns) – A sticky note sheet\ 1. Lower the Z by clicking on -Z such that the A4 size paper just scraps the nozzle tip when moved between the nozzle tip and the print bed. If the paper is too tight to slide in, raise the nozzle. If the paper slides easily without any scarp with the tip feel, then lower the nozzle. You may want move Z by 0.1, 1 or 10 units based on the situation and your judgement (figure 6).\ \ NOTE: While lowering the Z, the system might prevent you from lowering the Z-axis any further. In such case, enter the G-code M1012 in the manual insert G-code tab and you should be able to move the Z-axis further down. ![](/files/-M0UW2TGs0PY9fPu4fpm) Figure 6: Spooler window showing the +Z and -Z tab to lower or raise the print head/nozzle 1. Once the nozzle tip is at the correct height (paper scrapping the nozzle tip), type in the G-code G33 in the manual insert G-code tab and click on send. This will store the offset values for all the corners in the system (figure 7) – Next Page. ![](/files/-M0UWBmoTbHSBswFGwLr) Figure 7: Spooler window showing how to enter the manual insert code such as G33 to store the offset values 7\. To get access to the functions using the GUI, click on the Release Printer tab (figure 8). ![](/files/-M0UWGb2yDkGvHvBpfgs) Figure 8: Spooler window showing how to release the printer from spooler so that the printer can be controlled by the GUI # Safety / Certification M3D is a high volume american manufacturer of 3D Printers and all of\ its operations are based in (Fulton, MD). We provide 3D printers so\ that a wide range of end users (consumers, professional, and\ commercial) may experience this new technology.\ \ **General Safety and Compliance** As of 2016, The Micro 3D Printer is one of only a handful of 3D\ printers evaluated by a 3rd party (UL labs) to meet reasonable product\ safety standards, as this is not a requirement for 3D printers to be\ sold today. What this means is that UL engineers studied common risk\ areas such as fire, shock, and other personal injury; if there was an\ obvious safety risk caused by excessive fumes they would have also\ noted this. UL also evaluates our manufacturing on a regular basis,\ certifying that we are making our product consistently. However, keep\ in mind that UL is not a health authority so these statements can not\ constitute any final health safety determination.\ \ The Micro 3D Printer has the UL Reference Certificate number\ US-25169-UL and conforms to IEC CB test standards: EN 60950-1:2006\ /A11:2009 /A1:2010/A12:2011/ IEC 60950-1(ed.2), IEC 60950-1(ed.2);am1\ and is issued to E470050-A1-CB-1. Additionally the product meets CE\ and FCC testing requirements as well as RoHS material standards..\ \ **3D Printing Fumes** As of Jan 2016, there was no formal testing standard or requirement\ for evaluating fumes generated in 3D printers. Concerns of fume\ safety should be alleviated by limiting exposure - print in a well\ ventilated room or secondary space, keeping the printing nozzle clean\ of debris, and using high-quality established 3D printing materials\ (like PLA) rather than experimental ones. If there is any perceived\ allergy or reaction, stop using the machine.\ \ To date, there have been no health reactions or obvious dangers\ reported to us. In 2015, M3D had its products in the hands over over\ 25,000+ end-users, many including schools and research labs. We also\ have 50+ employees that work with 3D printers fully every day and have\ not had any reports of health concerns since our business was founded\ in late 2013. Many people prefer using Tough 3D ink or PLA 3D Ink\ because they have very low odor. However, these days most people\ choose to avoid ABS as a 3D printing material because it has a strong\ odor. We also advise against using ABS as it is an outdated 3D\ printing material with numerous printing disadvantages. In early\ 2016, we are offering ABS-R and an alternative ABS replacement\ material that has nearly zero odor.\ \ As with many new products, because there are few established testing\ standards or formal requirements regarding 3D printer safety, the\ ultimate risk is up to the end-user to assume. Additional information\ (liability, disclaimers, safety and warnings, and indemnity terms) can\ be found on our website\ ([http://printm3d.com/index.php?page=terms-of-use](https://store.printm3d.com/pages/terms-of-use)), end user manual\ (), and in our end-user terms of use when\ installing the M3D software (). # How To Guide: Micro fan replacement First please disconnect the printer from power and USB when performing this replacement to prevent electric static discharge (ESD) damage to the printer. It is recommended you ground yourself before working. ![](/files/-M78SlUkyNxY2FL2j1Kh) Remove print head from printer: 1. One side of the X Rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. Hold the slider in one hand, and the X Rack in the other. ![](/files/-M78SlUmeuaeUhVwioB4) 1. While holding the slider and X Rack, gently pull apart from each other. Please be careful as to not bend the Z Rods, only a small gap is needed. ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 1. Rotate the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 1. Take the print head and begin sliding it off the x-rack towards the end that is free to remove from rack. ![](/files/-M0UCrIJHvRv-vZxTLs1) ![](/files/-M0UCwGucPBnFGQwKHtI) 1. Slide the extruder body off of the rods and place on your working surface. Remove old fan: 1. Remove black front cover of the extruder body by pinching the sides and pulling from the top part of the cover. ![](/files/-M78b6FDq4qYvsY5RRWT) ![](/files/-M78bP-QD3vvUKUCdTkk) 1. Locate the black and red fan cable assembly and carefully pull apart the connector without damaging the pins or wires. Check for wire or connector damages. If there are damages to the wire or connector, then your replacement fan may not work correctly. ![](/files/-M0UahCspWDdln7RxxoA) 1. Use a small prying tool (small flat head screwdriver works well) to carefully unseat the fan from the bottom of the extruder. There are two glue spots on two of the four corners of the fan. Note: Newer Micro and Micro+ printers will have the fan mounted internally and it can be removed by using the following steps. ![](/files/-M0Uatay5m84CNlIT3QK) ![](/files/-M0UbO-wy8a7CZmsVqdz) 1. Once the fan is loose, remove the fan and carefully pull out the red and black fan wires. ![](/files/-M0UcgHsZ0ozfwm6y2MM) 1. Slide off black silicon heater cover from nozzle and heating unit. ![](/files/-M78hKxpiDLuAe3XhVXs) 1. Use a 5mm socket wrench to remove the nozzle from the extruder core. Note: hold the heating element above the lower part of the nozzle to keep it from spinning with the nozzle while unscrewing the part. ![](/files/-M78hKxqY0X8vD0c5Pix) 1. Carefully remove micro motion chip by gently pulling it up. ![](/files/-M78hKxr1wU7D9xEG3Ed) 1. Pull out the extruder core keeping all wires connected. ![](/files/-M78hKxsrVJ5p3jGp-e8) 1. Remove X housing from print head. If the fan in your printer was mounted from the inside, you can now pull it out. ![](/files/-M0UdkNq-irfvU9DsAIC) 1. Install new fan by dropping fan into the square opening of print bed housing. All fans should be mounted this way and not glued on from the outside. ``` Note: Fan label will face upwards inside the print head housing. ``` ![](/files/-M0Udp6gPecIxjVXJ7Cw) 1. Replace X housing. ![](/files/-M0UdtYshLREky9WpJT_) 1. Clip fan connector piece back into place matching the wire colors for both connectors.\ WARNING: Be sure the wire does not come out of the wire connector. If this happens, then please try to lodge the wire back into the connector. ![](/files/-M78ogN873jdyE7CjflR)![](/files/-M78ogN9Jgb7reodCLGw) 1. Replace extruder core into extruder body Note: place cable assembly grommet on top of extruder core before placing extruder core back into extruder body (see photo below). ![](/files/-M78ogNAkTkIjOrl0WmK)![](/files/-M78ogNBHzvLntSfGxGM) 1. Carefully slide micro motion chip back into place along the inside slot of the extruder body. 2. Place nozzle and Teflon tubing through heating unit and screw nozzle back into the extruder core with the 5mm socket wrench. ![](/files/-M78pusEHymRbUSGgu3r) 1. Tighten nozzle until 1 or 2 threads are showing below the metal housing. 2. Slide heating unit down to the end of the nozzle. 3. Replace black silicon heater cover over the nozzle and heating unit. Note: heating unit should be completely inside silicon cover. It may take some careful pressing with a small screwdriver to get the heating unit into the silicon (see photo below). ![](/files/-M78pusFaiKE2zwXtHla) Replace extruder into printer: 1. Align carbon rods with holes of extruder and slide extruder onto rods. 2. Align the carbon rods with the pegs of the slider and snap rods back into place. Congratulations, you are done! We recommend doing a calibration before the next print job. # Troubleshooting Temperature Issues Your prints could be failing due to being cold or too hot. It can be hard to tell sometimes weather it’s too cold or hot and we have provided some pictures below to show you the difference. ![](/files/-M0Ufw8DRFpVh1kqPZV2) **HOT** ![](/files/-M0Ug-dTrzAk8UXuI1Tr) As you can see in the photo above hot prints turn out stringy. You will want to lower temperatures to correct this. \*When adjusting temperatures we recommend starting with a 10 degree jump and then working in increments of 5 if needed\* **COLD** ![](/files/-M0Ug3bzS4sc-EHcqAVx) Cold prints do not bond well and will lift off the print bed. They are also quite brittle. You will want to increase temperatures to correct this. \*When adjusting temperatures we recommend starting with a 10 degree jump and then working in increments of 5 if needed\* **GOOD** ![](/files/-M0Ug7gHgOAp1KAJRJbI) Layers have bonded well with no strings. No adjustment should be required. # How To Guide: Replace Micro+ PCB In this guide we will explain how to replace the PCB for the M3D Micro+. You will need a T10 screwdriver and a hook tool (for belts) for the disassembly and you’ll want to be in an antistatic environment. Some electronics will be exposed during the disassembly and there is a chance you could damage them. We recommend not working on a carpeted area and to discharge before working. You can do this by touching something metal (Not the printer) for at least one second. Wearing an antistatic wrist-wrap would be good. Link for a wrist-wrap here htt[ps://www.amazon.com/](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Anti-Static-Components-RTK-002-)R[osewill-Anti-Static-Components-RTK-002-](http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Anti-Static-Components-RTK-002-)Yellow/dp/B004N8ZQKY/ref=sr\_1\_1?ie=UTF8\&qid=1494531998\&sr=8-1- spons\&keywords=anti+static+wrist+strap\&psc=1 Although, it is highly recommended to use an antistatic wrist-wrap, if you do not have access to the antistatic wrist-wrap, you can do the repair process by having a metal contact to your body throughout the repair. 1. To remove the upper base (fluff) of the printer, you would need a T10 screw driver as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Ui0-Uc3mIjg8-Zizx) 2\. Next you would need to remove the print head (extruder body) by removing the X rod and rack from the right side. The left side is glues to the slider so you may not be able to remove the rod and rack from the left side. This is shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Ui5I-tjHhDndczsLN) Now remove the print head completely from the X rack and rod as shown in the pictures below: ![](/files/-M0Ui9GLIuJzkctn3UhU) ![](/files/-M0UiDQMs2lGgpCI2ghP) 3\. Now you would need to remove the printer’s top frame (also called top chassis) as shown in the pictures below: ![](/files/-M0UiI_GzCqrOmnXGSQM) ![](/files/-M0UiMHx77fLJEi6bStt) 4\. Once the top frame is removed, the printer should look like as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UiQpkMHIuhuxlhmpi) 5\. Now remove the four T10 screws that holds the upper base (fluff) to the lower base as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UiVYiA5BUhM5hMvC-) 6\. Next detach the fluff from the lower base by pulling it apart very carefully as shown in the pictures below: ![](/files/-M0Ui_BVSJfgc5Nj2p4L) ![](/files/-M0UictJdTMrkuwJphhQ) 7\. Upper base (fluff), lower base and the Z belt and y belt once removed should have looked as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UlKADLUDMKyiAOCZe) 8\. Next step is to remove the screw that holds the PCB onto the lower base as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UlOxFHoJMKWQlDy5j) 9\. Now remove all the cables from the PCB carefully one by one as shown in the picture below. After removing the old PCB, install the new PCB and then put all the cables back on. ![](/files/-M0UlTr6f38hMCJ978JV) 10\. Remove the lead screws from the gantries as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UlYWAeavylGLNR4hP) 11\. Once all the parts are removed, place the two pulleys on the front left and the back right corners. Make sure that the square pulley sits on the front left and the round pulley sits on the back right as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Ulc1ITucAI-VnWnLE) 12\. First, install the Y belt as shown in the picture below with the teethes inwards as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UlhqRhWE2Ax2ISmNt) 13\. Now install the three lead screws and the square rod on the right side of the printer as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Ulot0RDWleYoYIJBY) 14\. Now place the upper base (fluff) back on to the lower base as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UluhBiCPjG5XbIkzs) 15\. Thread in the lead screw into the respective gantries as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UlyjiMdbKK9yzlwBQ) 16\. Install the gantries on to the lead screws and the square rods on both the left and right side as shown in the pictures below: ![](/files/-M0Um2MMkGUvNYCBgGRp) 17\. The gantries after being installed should look like as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Um7toxvvyDy1G4Y4c) 18\. Next Install the left square rod as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UmCFNPYlYXUVuJ_dz) 19\. This is how the printer should look like once the four threaded rods, tow square rods, and the left and right gantries are installed, as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UmH4fnWtz_X6CKqEV) 20\. Now install the Z belt by mounting it as shown in the pictures below: ![](/files/-M0UmMcV0DxqkwqkCYzd) ![](/files/-M0UmQaOovUf_oS5FDgH) 21\. Now connect the printer to the software and lower the Z axis down so that the top frame and be snapped in into place easily. The picture below shows the position of the gantries after moving them down in the Z axis. ![](/files/-M0UmVCtv8nQEvOU2qOt) 22\. Install the grommet at the back of the printer as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0Umb-wnclIAL7ls-Gr) ![](/files/-M0UmfNBI_30leCcajSh) 23\. Finally install the top frame and make sure that all the top of the rods snap into the correct holes in the top frame as shown in the picture below: ![](/files/-M0UmoAgnJRv6zABKBLS) ![](/files/-M0UmvWR8gbC7SFeKOxb) ![](/files/-M0Un0ouZN_hxQXfEnNq) Updated: Mar 30 (4 months a # Heater Position ![](/files/-LJp4W40oOou6hefRZq4) # How to Guide: Replace Z Belt If your Z-belt is broken or needs replacing, here is a guide on how to swap out the belt. \ 1\. One side of the x-rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not.\ Hold the slider in one hand, and the x-rack in the other. ![](/files/-M0ToXYHpCqhRjVt995y) 2\. While holding the slider and X Rack, gently pull apart from each other.\ Please be careful as to not bend the Z Rods, only a small gap is needed. ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 3\. Rotate the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 4\. Take the print head and begin to slide it off the x-rack towards the end that is free to\ remove from rack.\ Set print head aside. ![](/files/-M0UCrIJHvRv-vZxTLs1) ![](/files/-M0UCwGucPBnFGQwKHtI) 5\. Next, push down on a corner of the base and pull up on the same corner of the lid to\ remove the lid (see picture below for technique) ![](/files/-M0UENJ_rvQMNDc6UB8n) 6\. With the lid removed, you will see the z-belt running around the four pulleys on each\ threaded rod in the corners. Take a hook tool to grab the belt and slip it up and over the\ plastic base of the printer. ![](https://support.printm3d.com/scripts/file.php?view=Y\&file=8ef7aa1fb2999a4023d3270e1d223ae8)![](https://support.printm3d.com/scripts/file.php?view=Y\&file=2ee7d3e04e8aa6ba44546c75a098aaa8) 7\. Pull the belt up and over the other corners of the printer and remove ![](/files/-M0UEfC1eFlRhW7X1nCX) 8\. Take new belt and put it around all four threaded rods. ![](/files/-M0UEl6AfClyvqV9zjHF) 9\. Pull down the belt around the plastic edges of the printer and replace belt on all four\ pulleys. ![](/files/-M0UEqOpxm4DYMkKz7yg) 10\. Double check belt is not flipped upside down\ 11\. Take lid and replace it, aligning all rods into their respective holes\ 12\. Replace print head onto the x-rack\ 13\. Your printer is now ready for use again\ 14\. Please recalibrate the bed location before printing # How To Guide: Replace Y Belt ![](/files/-M0UJ-ksih4MRrMtKcdt) ![](/files/-M0ULxEP6ye8Ar7BgGjT) ![](/files/-M0UM2DvwFkitd5uVT6M) ![](/files/-M0UM7-1xyWsFk79ft78) ![](/files/-M0UMCoWnkXoRCyGjUCO) ![](/files/-M0UMHreyv_7HHgExNfj) ![](/files/-M0UMN1DxMANOUOlbKqP) ![](/files/-M0UMaf9KEP5ai7V-L6X) ![](/files/-M0UMhDYwTcJSGfwZZRP) ![](/files/-M0UMlru6FpMKYhOVD_J) ![](/files/-M0UMqmQNI7YsJP5DhJ3) ![](/files/-M0UMv7QF1pnUx0sCr0M) ![](/files/-M0UMzwsEp5kS9-3xuR6) # Removing Stuck Filament If your filament is loaded in between the extruder gear and you can’t remove it with the standard method in our software then you might need to open the extruder up to cut the filament out. Below our step by step instructions for removing said stuck filament. 1. Remove the front extruder cover to gain access to the inside of your extruder. 2. Once the cover is removed located the clear gear cover inside. ![](/files/-M0Z4iFyL6LxEDMh5Wtd) 1. After you have located the gear us a phillips screwdriver to remove the cover. ![](/files/-M0Z4nSl8mhNESeVQDq7) 1. Next use a pair of cutters to cut the filament right underneath the gear (be careful not to cut the small black tube poking out of the nozzle. ![](/files/-M0Z4r1u71s35Qb20D_2) 1. After cutting the filament you can use the cutters to pull the filament out from the gear and bearing. This should now allow you to remove the rest of the filament. ![](/files/-M0Z4w9tscvr9LBSBPau) 1. Once the filament is removed you can place the clear gear cover back on and screw it back in place. When screwing it back in place make sure not to screw it in too tight. Doing so can cause extrusion issues. We recommend screwing it in all the way and then doing a half turn back. This should allow the gear cover to stay in place without causing issues. # Micro+ Upgrade Kit Problem (No Power) If your Micro is not powering up after installing the Micro+ upgrade, check the two main plugs on the new cable assembly and make sure that they are plugged into the correct connectors on the PCB. When looking at the printer from the front, the cable marked "A" should be in the connector that is furthest to the right. If the cable assembly was plugged into the wrong connectors initially and the printer will not power up after switching the connectors to their correct positions it is usually an indication that the Micro Motion Chip in the extruder is now bad and needs to be replaced. A replacement MMC can be ordered directly from our parts website (). # Mac OS and Mono Info If your Mac is not able to run our Mac software please check that the correct version of Mono is installed. If Mono was installed on your computer by other software it is possible that the wrong version is being used. To check the version of Mono that is installed, please open Terminal and type "mono -V" (note capital 'V') and the result will be displayed. Mono versions. These are the latest tested, known good configurations: Mono JIT compiler version 4.8.0 (mono-4.8.0-branch/8f6d0f6 Thu Mar 9 11:59:17 EST 2017) Tested on macOS 10.12.1 and 10.13. Mono JIT compiler version 4.4.2 (mono-4.4.0-branch-c7sr1/f72fe45 Wed Jul 27 16:20:13 EDT 2016) Tested on macOS 10.11.6. # Extruder Core Replacement Guide First, please disconnect the printer from power and USB when performing this replacement to prevent electric static discharge (ESD) damage to the printer. It is recommended you ground yourself before working. 1. One side of the X Rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. Hold the slider in one hand and the X Rack in the other. ![](/files/-M78SlUmeuaeUhVwioB4) 1. While holding the slider and X Rack, gently pull apart from each other. Please be careful as to not bend the Z Rods, only a small gap is needed. ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 1. Rotate the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 1. Slide the extruder body off of the rods and place on your working surface. Remove existing extruder core 1. Remove black front cover of the extruder body by pinching the sides and pulling from the top part of the cover. ![](/files/-M0TpSsBA1QSbHyXPwD7) ![](/files/-M78bP-QD3vvUKUCdTkk) 1. Slide off black silicon heater cover from nozzle and heating unit ![](/files/-M78hKxpiDLuAe3XhVXs) 1. Use a 5mm socket wrench to remove the nozzle from the extruder core Note: hold the heating unit above the lower part of the nozzle to keep it from spinning with the nozzle while unscrewing the part. ![](/files/-M78hKxqY0X8vD0c5Pix) 1. Carefully remove micro motion chip by gently pulling it up. ![](/files/-M78hKxr1wU7D9xEG3Ed) 1. Pull out the extruder core keeping all wires connected. ![](/files/-M78hKxsrVJ5p3jGp-e8) 1. Unplug the wire harness connecting the extruder core to the cable assembly by tugging on the wires gently. Note: Be careful not to break a connector or pull wires out of the connector. ![](/files/-M7953MNkS-MJf4o2L6T) Install new extruder core 1. Connect new extruder core wire harness to connector labeled “E”. 2. Replace extruder core into extruder body. Note: place cable assembly grommet on top of extruder core before placing extruder core back into extruder body (see photo below). ![](/files/-M7953MPSxq-IJEKNzX7) 1. Carefully slide micro motion chip back into place along the inside slot of the extruder body. 2. Place nozzle and Teflon tubing through heating unit and screw nozzle back into the extruder core with the 5mm socket wrench. ![](/files/-M78pusEHymRbUSGgu3r) 1. Tighten nozzle until 1 or 2 threads are showing below the metal housing 2. Slide heating unit down to the end of the nozzle 3. Replace black silicon heater cover over the nozzle and heating unit Note: heating unit should be completely inside silicon cover. It may take some careful pressing with a small screwdriver to get the heating unit into the silicon (see photo below). ![](/files/-M78pusFaiKE2zwXtHla) Replace extruder onto the X rods. 1. Align carbon rods with holes of extruder and slide extruder onto rods 2. Align the carbon rods with the pegs of the slider and snap rods back into place # Print Not Sticking **Description of Problem** Prints not sticking to the print bed can be caused by an inaccurate bed level and the M3D software. **Cause** + *Solution* * **Peeling/Warping is seen at a print corner** - This could be due to incorrect nozzle height relative to the print bed. The best option is to manually decrease the offset value(s) to correct nozzle height position relative to the print bed. * *Solution:* Please view the [Bed Level Calibration](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=216) article to fix. * **Delamination** - At this point in time, happens more often while using ABS material type. You can view the [Printing with Phantom White ABS (a.k.a. HIPS](https://micro.printm3d.com/guides/printing-with-phantom-white-abs-a.k.a.-hips)) article to learn how to change temperature and fan settings during a print job. * *Solution:* Download the latest beta software version for [MAC](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AACLs90jq_mmgA04DpYmiDxCa/Software%20-%20Mac/Mac%20Software%20-%202015-11-23%20-%20El%20Capitan?dl=0) and [Windows](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AAAPXIomuyrv8poKvInJ-Pu-a/Software%20-%20Windows/Windows%20Software%20-%202015-11-23%20-%20Processing%20fix?dl=0) (has not been released yet) # Replacing and gluing X-gear First of all, please disconnect the printer from power and USB when performing this replacement to prevent electric static discharge (ESD) damage to the printer. It is recommended you ground yourself before working. ![](/files/-M78SlUkyNxY2FL2j1Kh) 1. One side of the X Rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. Hold the slider in one hand, and the X Rack in the other. ![](/files/-M78SlUmeuaeUhVwioB4) 2. While holding the slider and X Rack, gently pull apart from each other. Please be careful as to not bend the Z Rods, only a small gap is needed. ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 3. Rotate the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 1. Slide the print head off of the rods and place on your working surface 2. While holding print head, replace X-gear into it's normal position with either a flat head screw driver or another tool 3. Then with a small applicator, place a small drop of super glue at the cent of the gear where the metal motor shaft is visible. 4. Allow the glue to fully dry and then replace the print head repeating the steps above in the reverse order # How to guide: Z motor replacement If you have decided to replace your Z motor, here is a guide on how to replace it. 1. One side of the x-rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. Hold the slider in one hand, and the x-rack in the other. ![](/files/-M0ToXYHpCqhRjVt995y) 1. While holding the slider and X Rack, gently pull apart from each other. Please be careful as to not bend the Z Rods, only a small gap is needed. ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 1. **Rotate** the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 1. **Take** the print head and begin to **slide** it off the x-rack towards the end that is free to remove from rack. *Set print head aside*. ![](/files/-M0UCrIJHvRv-vZxTLs1) ![](/files/-M0UCwGucPBnFGQwKHtI) 1. With printer on and connected, click the gear in the upper right hand corner to access settings ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa8ba128e1.png) 1. Navigate to the advanced settings tab and click the checkbox labeled "Expert Mode" ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa90b0a79a.png) 2. The spooler window should now open and you will want to raise the z height by 50 or so to get the gantries to at least the middle of the Z plane. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afeb45a2cc9.png) 1. Unplug both USB and power cables from printer for next steps 2. Next, push down on a corner of the base and pull up on the same corner of the lid to remove the lid (see picture below for technique) Note: Take caution when pulling off lid. You do not want to pull the rods out from the base ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559410a528097.png) 3. In order to gain access to the Z motor, you will need to remove the back right screw located underneath the print bed. You will need a T10 screw driver. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3c0eba597.png) 1. Once the screw is removed, you will be able to push apart the base and fluff at the corner exposing the Z motor. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3c7686946.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3c91de3e8.png) 1. Use needle nose pliers to grab the motor shaft to lift the Z motor from the motor cavity and remove. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3d5f4f52f.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3def065b3.png) 1. The wire harness from the Z motor will be wound underneath another wire harness. To make sure the other wires are not disturbed when pulling out the connector, snip the Z motor wire harness indicated in red in the photo below and then pull the connector from the PCB. Warning: Make sure you are snipping the Z motor harness and not any of the other wires ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3e1f94cf6.png) 1. Take the new Z motor and drop it into the motor cavity ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3e5d8bff6.png) 1. Take the wire harness and use needle nose pliers to seat the connector back into the PCB. Note: Be extra careful seating the connector back into the PCB ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3efb9d8d2.png) 1. Once fully connected, rotate the motor shaft of the Z motor to match the pulley's position above. Then take the top and bottom parts of the printer body and press them together to snap the printer body back into place ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3f6e0f5ea.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_56df3f7e6d1f0.png) 1. Screw in the back right screw to secure the bottom and top parts of the printer body 2. Take the top cube of the printer and align the rods into their respective holes. It may be easier to align one side of the printer at a time. Once aligned, press the cube top down until it snaps into place. 3. Once the cube top is back on, reverse the steps to put the print head back on. 4. With the printer plugged in, recalibrate the Z height before conducting a test print. # How To Guide: Cutting X Rack to length **Problem: Y Stalling/ Skipping** In the factory we cut the ends of the X Rack, which is the **toothed rod** the print head moves on. You may be experiencing Y Stalling/ Skipping if the ends of your X Rack are not cut. Here are some simple steps to fix the problem: 1. One side of the X Rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. \ **Hold** the slider in one hand, and the X Rack in the other. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760dd954252.png) 2. While holding the slider and X Rack, *gently* **pull** apart from each other. \ \&#xNAN;*Please **be careful** as to not bend the Z Rods, only a **small gap** is needed*. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760e1ba8cde.png) 3. **Rotate** the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders. ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760e581d851.png) 4. **Trim** piece of plastic sticking out from X Rack. \ \&#xNAN;*Use **wire cutters** or **diagonal cutters** for a clean cut.* ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760e8a28966.png)\ \&#xNAN;***See photo below for completed, cut X Rack.*** ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_55760eaaaa472.png) 5. **Reinstall** X Axis in reverse order. We hope these instructions prove useful. Please reply if you have any trouble with this process or any other questions you may have. All the best, M3D Team # Z-axis Rod Loose If you notice that one of the Z-axis threaded rods is loose or not correctly seating into the frame of the printer, you can carefully realign the rod and reseat it. Below is a visual guide that will help to walk you through the procedure. 1. Identify the troublesome Z-axis rod. See image below for reference. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55940ed52f399.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55940f4044a05.png)\ 2. Take the corner with the unseated rod and slightly pull up in order to get the hole above the rod.\ Note: Be careful not to pull up on the entire lid which could cause other rods to come out. Just focus on the corner that is loose. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559410a528097.png) 3. Next, turn the printer on its side in order to get a good view of the hole where the rod needs to be inserted. Take the rod and realign the rod. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5594113f550f2.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55941168c2870.png) 4. Now with the rod aligned, press on the corner of the lid to snap it into place over the rod. The rod should seat well and the lid will snap into place at the bottom of the printer. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559411cdd0a51.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_559411f21321a.png) 5. Your rod is now back into position. Because this process will probably change the nozzle height, we recommend recalibrating the print bed to ensure the nozzle is at the correct height relative to the print bed. # How To Guide: X-Rod and Rack Replacement **Here are some simple steps to replaced a damaged X-Rod and Rack:** 1. One side of the x-rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not. **Hold** the slider in one hand, and the x-rack in the other.\ ![](/files/-M78SlUmeuaeUhVwioB4) 2. While holding the slider and X Rack, *gently* **pull** apart from each other. *Please **be careful** as to not bend the Z Rods, only a **small gap** is needed.*\ ![](/files/-M0TohBK8d7u5PwWXoLu) 3. **Rotate** the slider so the pegs point upwards. The X Axis is now free from the sliders.\ ![](/files/-M0Tp2mo0_x55E5PyX50) 4. **Take** the print head and begin to **slide** it off the x-rack towards the end that is free to remove from rack. *Set print head aside*.\ ![](/files/-M0UCrIJHvRv-vZxTLs1) ![](/files/-M0UCwGucPBnFGQwKHtI) 5. To remove the damaged rods, *carefully* **wiggle** **and twist** the side that is glued to break the glue bond without applying too much force that will break the pegs on the slider ***Note**: Remember which side the x-rack is located for next steps of replacing rods* ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55708ce0ad071.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55708d0b25dec.png) 6. **Replace** the rods on the pegs in their correct locations with the print head installed. 7. With the extruder in the MIDDLE of the X-rods, **rotate** the rear X-rod to the tightest position. This will reduce the amount that the extruder wobbles.\ \&#xNAN;***Note:*** Sometimes *you will have a rod that does not get tighter as you rotate it. That is ok, just move onto the next step.* ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571e239900d9.png) 8. **Push** inwards on the sliders to make sure the rack is pressed into the sliders. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571e2534411b.png) 9. *While still pushing the sliders together,* **push** the rear X-rod all the way to the RIGHT side. This ensures that if the rod is short and there is a gap on one side, the gap is next to the LEFT slider. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571e291b4d09.png) 10. **Flip** the printer over and lightly **glue** the rack and rod to the left slider from the bottom. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571e2c0ecc8d.png) 11. Once glue is set, you are ready to print again! We hope these instructions prove useful. Please reply if you have any trouble with this process or any other questions you may have. # Gantry system becomes crooked during movement Have you noticed the gantry becomes crooked during Y axis movements? It's possible that you just need to manually align them. ![](/files/-M78c3mve5GemxefmBGg) 1. With the printer unplugged, take the horizontal cross bar and slide it to the middle of the printer. 2. Now, firmly grasp one slider to hold into place and slide the other slider towards the direction of the other to align them Note: some force is required to overcome the friction 3. You'll hear a little clicking as the slider moves 4. You can slide the horizontal cross bar to the front of the printer to check that the sliders are aligned similarly to the photo below ![](/files/-M78c3mw0X9eV4chU-4X) If the sliders become unaligned again or move independently of one another, it is likely a belt may have broken or jumped off pulley teeth. You can check this by running the Y skip test in the spooler (Settings Icon>>>Advanced>>>Expert Mode>>>Diagnostics tab) and see if there is any movement from the right side gantry or if it is just being dragged by the left side gantry. If the Y belt inside the base area is ok then the left or right gantry, which lost it's belt should probably be replaced. It is good to know that these two Y belts on the left and right carbon rods are not manufactured as a continuous loop. ![](/files/-M78c3mxIDMjN6nLgn33) Second, the gantry can become crooked during a print job if the small belt inside the base area has been detached from the pulley teeth. There is a belt inside the base (Y belt) that connects the left side gantry Y motor to the right side gantry. As you can see in the image below, the smaller Y belt on the motor, which is located underneath the base, is a continuous loop. The Y belt on the motor is most likely the belt that needs to be re-latched onto the pulley teeth. ![](/files/-M78c3mypZSFdoAY3nid) To fix the Y belt inside the base, please follow the instruction below: 1. Pull on the box top, while putting your hand on the base. The box top will click and slide off the tabs that it is connected to. Be aware of any bearings or tiny washers that fall out during this process, because you will need to place these back on during re-assembly. 2. Once you have slightly popped the box top upward, you can peek under to see if the belt has been detached from the pulley teeth. It is not necessary to completely detach the box top from the printer. 3. If so, then use a small hook tool to pull the belt back onto the pulley teeth. 4. Once you have successfully latched the belt onto the pulley, please move the print head back and forth to ensure the gantry does not become crooked during movement. 5. Next, continue to re-mate the box top onto the base, while ensuring the bearings and washers are in their correct positions as before. 6. Once all parts are in the correct positions, then you can slide the steel rods into the bearing holes on the top side of the box top. # Remote Diagnostic: X and Y Skip Test The purpose of this test is to **diagnose your printer's X-axis and Y-axis movement.** This test will run the gantry system along the x-axis or y-axis to ensure it moves from end to end without skipping. Please upgrade to the latest software package, to run the following X and Y Skip diagnostic tests. Software Version 2015-03-24-9.4 is used as an example in this article. 1. Please **go to Expert mode** on the Advanced page in the Settings menu. ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/5016983768/original/ExpertMode.JPG?1431442561) 2. After selecting the Expert Mode checkbox, the M3D Print Spooler window will open. \ Please **select the Diagnostics tab** that is located on the top of the printer options. ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/5016984730/original/DiagnosticsTab.JPG?1431442786) 3. After selecting the Diagnostics tab, you have the option to perform a number of tests to diagnose X-axis and Y-axis movements. 1. The Skip tests will step every 1 second along the X or Y axis, depending on which button you click. 2. The Speed tests will quickly move the print head along the X or Y axis. 3. During the skip tests, please watch and listen closely to see if the printer skips. You will see and possibly hear a slight stall/skip while the print head travels during the test. 4. If you determine the printer skips in one or both directions, use the [X-Axis Services](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=39) and [Y-Axis Services](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=38) support pages to find a solution. Also, you can report your findings to our tech support team.\ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_557f039298304.png) We hope these instructions prove useful. Please reply if you have any trouble with this process or any other questions you may have. # X-Axis Services **Description of Problem** The X Housing is how the extruder moves along the X axis (or left to right). There is a Rack and Rack Gear system that enables this movement. The Rack Gear is located inside the Extruder, and is part of the Housing X System. The Rack and X Carbon Rod slide into the Housing X System in the Extruder. They are supported on either side by the Sliders. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a5e0d17852d.png) ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a5e0244124b.png) **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Back X-rod is slightly oblong** * *Solution:* Take the back X carbon rod and spin it until the least amount of friction is felt. You should feel the rod tighten in certain spots when rotating and loosen in other spots. You want to leave the rod in the position that is loosest.\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_5571e239900d9.png)\ * **Inconsistent glue thickness along the rack** - We apologize if the rack was not properly assembled for you. * *Solution:* Apply a small amount of loctite super glue to the flat back of the rack. *Firmly* press the rack against the carbon rod and allow the glue to settle. You could use a clamp to ensure the glue forms a solid bond between the rack and carbon rod. *Warning: if you use too much glue, the excess will splurge up towards the extruder head and potentially cause it to skip on the x-axis during print jobs.*\ * **Print head does not move left to right at all** - If the X-skip test is performed and the print head has not moved left or right, this means the x-axis gear slid off of the x-axis motor shaft. (As shown in image below) * *Solution:* It’s very simple to push this back on, but you will need to push it up the motor shaft like the 2nd picture. **Orient** the gear properly so it slides up the flattened shaft a little bit. > **Get** a flat head screwdriver. > **Place** the flat head screwdriver between the carbon rods and gear. > **Use**the flat head to push the gear up all the way up on the shaft. > *The black gear should be flush with the black plastic housing for the x-axis motor. >* **Run** the X Skip test to confirm the printer no longer has skipping issues as it moves along the X-axis. Refer to [Remote Diagnostic: X and Y Skip Test](http://m3dhelp.com/support/article.php?id=18).\ * **Replace X-rod and Rack** - Please view the [How To Guide: X-Rod and Rack Replacement](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=74) article for more information. # Y-Axis Services **Description of Problem** The Sliders travel along the Y Carbon Rods, and are pulled by 2 Y Belts (Left and Right). The Y moves the Extruder Forwards and Backwards. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a5e316c6489.png) **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Model slicing** * *Solution:* Scaling might be incorrect, try to increase the scale. Also, the cura settings in the M3D software may be to blame. * **Nozzle height might be too low** * *Solution:* First, make sure your print bed is level. Second, increase the bed height offset by 0.1mm and reprint. If you don't know how check if your bed is level or how to increase the bed height offset, please go to the [How To Guide: Printbed Calibration](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=216) page. * **Print quality settings** * *Solution:* Try printing with Low Quality and Low Infill. See the [Print Settings: Print quality, Fill density, Support material, Wave bonding, & Raft](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=17) for more details. \ * **Overly long X-axis carbon rods.** * *Solution:* The x-axis rack length may be too long and limits Y-axis movement. The x-axis rod length can be shortened by simply cutting the tab on the right. Please view the following link for the instructions: [How To Guide: Cutting X Rack to length](http://m3dhelp.com/support/article.php?id=21)\ * **Very slight or very rare skips over long prints.** * *Solution:* Let nylon sliders work itself in; spray teflon drylube coating. Also, make sure the external feed path is friction-less and the filament is not tangled. Please view and run the [Remote Diagnostic: X and Y Skip Test](http://m3dhelp.com/support/article.php?id=18). If your print head does not meet the front rods during the test, then see the following causes for Y skip and repair your unit as necessary.\ * **Carbon rods expanding at the front or rear gantry peg.** * *Solution:* Request a replacement x-axis carbon rods from [technical support](http://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support). Please include a picture in your request email. We hope these instructions prove useful. Please [contact technical support here](http://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support) if you have any other questions. If you are not up to replacing items yourself, you can send it in for repair. Please view our [Return for Repair (RMA) Policy](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=79) for more information. *Y-Skip Example Image (As of 6/2/2015)* * *Software Package: 2015-05-28-V1.2* * *Model: Nut* * *Print Quality: High* * *Fill Density: Low* * *Print Features: Raft on; Wave Bonding on* ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_556e278c4c5a7.png) # Print head dives into print bed If your print head crashes into the print bed during calibration, it is possibly due to the nozzle not being lower than the fan. Below are images depicting this. | ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_565f5f7a7794a.png) | ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_565f5faab1f3c.png) | | ---------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------- | | **Correct Nozzle Height** | **Nozzle height too low** | * If the nozzle height is too low, it could be the fan is falling out of its position. Simply push it back up and apply a small amount of super glue. * Or you can unscrew the nozzle a little bit in order to get the nozzle tip to the correct position # Printer Not Extruding/Underextrusion/Overheating **Desciption of Problem** If the printer does not extrude at all, you either have a clog in the nozzle or the extruder motor is problematic. **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Software** - Please upgrade to the latest beta version software. * *Solution:* Download the latest beta version for [MAC](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AACLs90jq_mmgA04DpYmiDxCa/Software%20-%20Mac/Mac%20Software%20-%202015-11-23%20-%20El%20Capitan?dl=0) or [Windows](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AAAPXIomuyrv8poKvInJ-Pu-a/Software%20-%20Windows/Windows%20Software%20-%202015-11-23%20-%20Processing%20fix?dl=0)\ * **Overheating extruder** - The print head may be experiencing an overheating effect which causes the printer to have difficulty extruding material. This can also cause the filament to get pushed back up into the extruder gear. You can remove the wallE cover to verify if the filament is wrapped around the gear like the image below. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55957424c2c29.png) * *Solution:* If this occurs, it is very likely that the fan is not running while printing. Please refer to the fan section below. **Extruder**\ The extruder motor can wiggle out of the metal housing position inside the print head. Extruder gear issues include: Jam in extruder gear. Remove cover and clean out filament from the print head. Here are the recommended in-field repairs for motors that have moved out of the housing E: Recommend using a small screwdriver to push it forward back into its housing and then applying some super glue to hold it in place. -Take a look at this forum thread () to see a visual of how your motor should look, and where to apply the superglue.\ -As long as the motor is pushed all the way forward, you should be able to apply the superglue to all the circled points shown in the image. Push motor into HousingE and retain with small screws, glue. -Use the following instruction to replace the original extruder core ([How To Guide: Extruder Core Replacement](http://m3dhelp.com/support/article.php?id=15))\ -Add screws in the middle of this process. (see example image below) Purchase a replacement extruder core -Use the following instruction to replace the original extruder core ([How To Guide: Extruder Core Replacement](http://m3dhelp.com/support/article.php?id=15)) ![](http://m3dhelp.com/support/assets/img_5567ed856eb6b.png) **Fan**\ The fan can either be disconnected (as seen in the image below), slow, or dead. Also, the fan needs to have the correct code to operate properly and not fail prematurely. * **The fan is on full blast and very noisy OR the wrong M-code was set for the fan** - Both of these issues can be eliminated by software fix. Please download the latest beta version for [MAC](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AABjwVY7WmwFr7aavB1lF7z0a/Software%20-%20Mac?dl=0) or [Windows](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/maf6kv4c80fyu0b/AACH_cU2QQEIFeVqJ88l5v6ia/Software%20-%20Windows?dl=0) to ensure the m-code will work properly. * *Solution:* Identify which type of Fan logo you have in your printer. >Once you match the logo on the fan to find your fan’s identification code. > Open Settings menu and click Expert Mode to open the M3D Spooler > Type your fan’s identification code in the textbox titled “Manual Insert G-Code” and press enter. > Your fan should now be ready.\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55818adf57c82.png)\ \ **Note: If you do not see a logo on the bottom of your fan, this is our newest fan version and should use the code M19007** * **Fan turning slow** - Filament or a pinched wire may be trapped in the blades. * *Solution:* Check the fan for any physical obstruction.\ * **Fan not rotating** - The fan could have disconnected wires, a disconnected connector, or might also have a bad position (too high) in the extruder housing. * *Solution:* Please [open the print head cover](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=16) and check the fan's connector is attached. It will be the smallest connector with two wires. Try lowering the fan by 1mm increments.\ * **Replacing a Fan** - To purchase a fan, Need instructions to install a replacement fan? * *Solution:* Please view the [How To Guide: Fan Replacement](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=73) article. **Worst Case Scenario**\ If the fan is connected properly and does not spin at all, it's possible the unit has a shorted PCB circuit board. This requires initiation of a return for repair (RMA) process.\ **Heater**\ The temperature of for the hot end area might be too cold. **Troubleshooting: Confirm the Heater is not broken** 1\. Load filament as normal. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55b012b8e3ace.png) 2\. Open M3D Spooler by clicking the icon in the lower right hand corner. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55b01388cbeba.png) 3\. Watch the temperature rise at the bottom of the Spooler window. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55b0132a62c52.png) 4\. If the temperature rises to 200C, the heater is working properly. If the temperature does not rise above 50C, then the heater wires might have broken off of the metal contact pad or a wire has been removed from the connector socket. ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55b016b219329.png) **Causes** + *Solutions* **Air Flow** - If the Front Cover of the print head is off the print head, air flow from changing ambient temperature (external fans or open windows) might create cold extrusion symptoms. Solution: Please put the cover on. Otherwise, a replacement front cover can be purchased under warranty with a request to [Technical Support](https://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support). **Heater+Rubber Insulator Position** - Heater issues most likey result from the Heater and the rubber insulator are positioned too far up on the nozzle shaft. This can create a cooler chamber at the tip of the nozzle, which will cause thin filament to extrude (a sign of cold extrusion). *Solution:* Re-position the Heater to at the tip of the nozzle [(see correct example)](http://i.imgur.com/pMMwDF3.png). **Low Factory Calibration** - Temperature can be low due to low factory calibration. *Solution:* Increase temperature in increments of 10C at a time. Your filament might not be hot enough. Find out how to change temperature and more on [Creating Custom Filament Profiles](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=47). **Heater Fail Error Messages** - Printer will not heat up. First check if the wires are connected and not broken. Second, check if your Expert Mode spooler log says any of the following error codes. Error code “HF:1” = Heater switch failed Error code “HF:2” = Heater failed\ Error code “HF:3” = Similar to “HF:1” heater is in an uncontrolled state\ \&#xNAN;*Solution:* First, try to power cycle the printer (unplug, and plug back in). If the error messages occur again then hardware has failed, which means either heater wires are broken or heater controller is fried. Second, confirm the heater wires have not broken or been disconnected on either end. Otherwise, please see the worst-case scenario below. **Worst Case Scenario**\ We cannot send a replacement heater element because the calibration values would not match and would potentially cause your printer to not work properly. The heater wires might have been disconnected for some reason. If you find the wires are disconnected or broken, please email us an image through . We will then need to initiate the [Return for Repair (RMA) process](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=182). ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55a70040dc4cb.png) **Nozzle**\ Nozzle might have particulates that block the nozzle hole. **Metal particulates** - Metal particulates might be blocking hole at the nozzle tip. *Solution:* Use a steel wire (any steel wire of \~1 mm should work) to clean the nozzle, but please take care when removing clogged filament from the nozzle with metal. Although the heater only runs at 5V and you won't get a shock, it may break if metal comes into contact with the wire across the heater's contacts. Continue cleaning the nozzle with a steel wire until it moves freely without encountering any sticky plastic. For a video demonstration of this process (Thank you Mark Wheadon!), please view the youtube video here: . Recommendation is to purchase a replacement nozzle subassembly. A replacement nozzle subassembly can be purchased under warranty with a request to [Technical Support](https://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support). **Loading different materials** - Clogs after switching between materials, especially trying to push pla after another material (nylon, TPU, ninjaflex, abs). Non-M3D filament, such as Carbon or wood filled filament was used is NOT covered by warranty. *Solution:* Please view the [Switching from ABS to PLA filament type](https://printm3d.com/solutions/article.php?id=48) article to fix. Recommendation is to purchase a replacement nozzle subassembly. A replacement nozzle subassembly can be purchased under warranty with a request to [Technical Support](https://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support). **Dirty nozzle tip** *Solution:* To clean the nozzle tip, please use the "Remove Filament" function and follow the prompts in the software. Once the filament has been removed, you can take a sponge, a strand of ABS or PLA filament, or something with a textured surface and proceed to wipe it clean since the heater is still on. Please be careful not to burn your fingers. **Teflon tube jammed or flipped** - The teflon tube might have pushed up into walle and jammed the extruder drive gear. Also, the teflon tube might be flipped so the chamfered end could be on the wrong end. *Solution:* Fix the top hole chamfer so it is round, re-insert, make sure [teflon tube is positioned correctly](http://i.imgur.com/UHzgliq.png). Flip the teflon tube to the chamfered opening. You may need to heat up the nozzle to remove the teflon tube. As a last resort, our recommendation is to purchase a replacement nozzle subassembly. A replacement nozzle subassembly can be purchased under warranty with a request to [Technical Support](https://printm3d.com/contact?t=Technical-Support). **WallE resistance** - The small black cover on the drive bearing inside the extruder might be screwed on too tight. *Solution:* Remove walle to verify. Sand or file the walle to fix; or send replacement walle once verified. # Serial Number Reset **Serial Number Reset Procedure** Please download and unzip the following file: {% file src="/files/-M17304HmEmv27itxZSg" %} M3D Serial Number Reset Software {% endfile %} 1\. Select the bin folder, then select AllSystemsforBaseStation.application. 2\. Select Micro+ at the top and select "M board is being recycled". 3\. Plug USB and power cords into the PCB. The system will beep when it connects to the PCB. 4\. Enter the 16 digit serial number from the white sticker inside the base of the printer into the "New SN (serial number) field. Note: You must use the recognizable serial number for the system to accept the number. Include the first two capitilized letters. 5\. Select the "Burn Serial" button. The system will state....Serial number being pushed now. 6\. Unplug the power cord ONLY, system will state " Waiting for printer to connect" in capital black letters. 7\. Plug the power cord back in and system will state " Please unplug the printer now" in green letters. 8\. Unplug power cord first, and then the USB cord. System will state "Process completed for printer". The PCB now has a new serial number and is ready to use. # How to dim front LED light on Micro **Dimming front LED light** If you would like to dim the front LED of your Micro printer, you can send a simple gcode through the spooler to do so. This process does not work for a Micro+ however this feature will be added in a future release of our software for Micro+ printers. **The procedure** 1. With printer on and connected, click the gear in the upper right hand corner to access settings\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa90b0a79a.png) 2. Navigate to the advanced settings tab and click the checkbox labeled "Expert Mode" to open the Spooler\ \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_55afa8ba128e1.png) 3. Find the manual insert gcode text field \ ![](https://printm3d.com/solutions/assets/img_566ae313de746.png) 4. Enter gcode: M420 t125 for half the LED strength Note: You can change the strength of the LED by changing the t value between 0 - 255. For example, 0 = LED OFF, 255 = LED ON, 125 = LED HALF ON. Adjust LED with the t value that works for you. # Common electronic issues **Description of Problem** Here are some common electronic issues: Microelectronics board, MicroMotion chip, USB jack, Power jack, and Fan. **Causes** + *Solutions* * **Micro Motion Chip Error Message** - If you get the message “Sorry, there seems to be a problem with your Micro Motion chip" and the LED is not blinking or the Micro is not responding to diagnostic tests there is a problem with the Micro Motion Chip. The Spooler error message is, "UNABLE TO INIT HARDWARE. CHECK MICRO MOTION CABLE CONNECTION." * *Solution:* A replacement micro motion chip can be purchased directly from our parts website (). If a simple replacement of the micro motion chip does not work, then we will need to initiate a Returns for Repair (RMA) Process. * **LED is blinking (Micro Only)** - LED is blinking when the power is plugged in. The Micro Motion chip has broken wires, missing a component, or got shorted. It is normal for the lights to blink on a Micro+. * *Solution:* A replacement micro motion chip can be purchased directly from our parts website ().\ * **LED's don't turn on** - LED plate is bad or PCB shorted. * *Solution:* A Returns for Repair (RMA) needs to be initiated.\ * **Broken Power jack component** - Check if component wiggles. Check if the power adapter is reading 5 volts. * *Solution:* Please notify us via our contact page of any shipment damage immediately after unboxing the product. Once we have received your notification, we will initiate a claims process with UPS. They will attempt three pick up's on three consecutive business days. You will need to place the package in the original packaging and either give it to the UPS driver during the business day or you can leave it outside (at your own risk) to be picked up. We will then initiate a Returns for Repair (RMA) Process.\ * **Broken USB component** - Check if component wiggles. * *Solution:* Please notify us via our contact page of any shipment damage immediately after unboxing the product. Once we have received your notification, we will initiate a claims process with UPS. They will attempt three pick up's on three consecutive business days. You will need to place the package in the original packaging and either give it to the UPS driver during the business day or you can leave it outside (at your own risk) to be picked up. We will then initiate a Returns for Repair (RMA) Process.\ * **Fan not spinning** - Dead fan or PCB shorted while touching the wires to replace the fan component * *Solution:* A Returns for Repair (RMA) needs to be initiated.